Wood Panelling, Timber, Plywood + MDF Surface Guide
How to apply limewash to wood surfaces
Limewash works best on certain wood surfaces, such as unpainted softwoods like pine and ply. It is not recommended for architectural elements such as architraves and doors.
This is the right guide for you if you want to learn how to:
- determine the suitability of your wood surface based on material and function
- limewash unpainted decorative furniture
- limewash plywood, pine wood, or matchboard
- prepare your surface before limewashing
- apply limewash paint
- adjust the finish from having visible woodgrain to opaque
Supply Checklist
- Whisk or Electric Mixer
- Bucket
- 4 x 14 Limewash Brush
- Water
- Limewash Paint
- Prep Coat
- Clean Rag
- Sponge
- Sandpaper
Lime Wash Brushes
Limewash Paint
Mixing Tool
Wood Surface Suitability
Limewash can be applied directly to most timbers with low tannin content, like pine. High-tannin woods such as oak, teak, or jarrah may leach through the paint—always test first. Apply in either an opaque finish or a light wash to let the grain show through.
Limewash Paint is Suitable For:
• Unpainted decorative furniture
• Plywood and pine
• Matchboarding
• Ceilings (pinewood, plywood, or chipboard)
• MDF (decorative use only, with Prep Coat)
Not recommended for: Architectural elements such as architraves, doors, skirtings, or external applications.
Surface Wear: Limewash has a fully matte finish, which cannot be cleaned like gloss paints and may scuff or wear with frequent handling. Avoid high-contact areas like skirtings or in areas touched daily.
Fillers: Avoid fillers where possible, as they may appear as lighter or darker patches. Timber plugs are a better solution for fixing imperfections.
Planning + Preparation
During construction or renovation, it is advisable to schedule Bauwerk painting as the final trade to prevent damage to the final finish caused by other trades or building equipment.
To test your colour (which we recommend) on an unpainted wooden surface, apply it to a separate piece of the same material or a discreet, hidden area. Sampling directly on the surface may leave a visible patch. To minimise this leave the edges of the test patch feathered out and in a irregular shape.
The coverage of Limewash Paint on Raw Absorbent wood is 10–15m² (107–161ft²) per litre, per coat, with 2-3 coats required for full coverage.
Painting Bauwerk Limewash Paint over Previously Painted/Sealed Wood Surface: 15-20m² (161-215ft²), with 2-3 coats required.
Note: Recommendations for coverage are to be used as a guide only, variation in the quantity needed will depend on the porosity of the surface to be painted. We always recommend the use of sample pots for an accurate colour representation and consumption for your particular surface and light conditions.
Surface Cleaning
Unpainted new timber
Lightly dust off timber with a clean rag. Apply some water to the surface to allow any grain to take up moisture and swell. Once dry, lightly sand back to a smooth finish. This process prevents a rough surface as the short fibres absorb the moisture and raise up. The sandpapering removes these raised fibres so your surface remains smooth when you apply the paint.
Unpainted weathered timber
Sand to smooth the surface and to remove built up dirt. Dust off with a clean rag.
Previously painted timber
To improve the chances of adhesion, lightly sand back any glossy areas and dust off before you begin.
Surface Preparation
Depending on the condition of your timber, you may need to prepare the surface with primer and/or Bauwerk Colour Prep Coat before applying limewash paint.
Unpainted Wood (no fillers, patches, or jointing compounds)
• For Visible Wood Grain: No primers or Prep Coat needed.
• To Cover Wood Grain: Apply 1 coat of Bauwerk Prep Coat.
Decorative Use on MDF
Apply 1 coat of Bauwerk Prep Coat.
Wood or MDF with Patches, Repairs, or Jointing Compounds
If plywood or chipboard panels are tightly joined, or if gaps and screw holes have been filled you’ll need to even out absorbency and prevent ghosting—where joints or filled areas show through the limewash paint finish– with a primer.
• Apply 2 coats of a good-quality water-based primer.
• Apply 1 coat of Bauwerk Prep Coat.
Previously Painted Wood (unless stripped back to bare wood)
Apply 1 coat of Bauwerk Prep Coat.
Limewash Paint Preparation + Application
- Thoroughly stir limewash paint and decant into a suitable container or bucket. Ensure no pigment remains in the original container.
- Continue to stir the paint regularly throughout the painting process.
- Ensure you have the correct brush for the job. You will need an absorbent bristle block brush— our 4×14 limewash block brush is our most popular size, perfect for most applications.
Apply 2 coats of Bauwerk Limewash Paint
- Dip your Bauwerk natural bristle brush into the paint. Remove excess paint with a flick of the wrist. The brush can hold a lot of paint, but should not be dripping.
- Start in a corner of the wall–holding the brush at a right angle to the wall. It may be best to hold the brush on the brush body, rather than the handle for more control.
- Using loose, free strokes stretch the paint as far as possible, varying the direction of strokes constantly. Let the bristles do the work. There is no need to apply too much pressure.
- Brush out the paint evenly in a thin coat, preventing runs or drips, while covering every part of the surface in the first coat. Maintain a wet edge at all times to prevent lines in your finished surface*. Finish each coat in one continuous application. Do not try and patch walls once the coat is finished, as missed areas can be covered in the next coat. With large expanses, it helps to work to a natural break in the wall, such as mortar joints.
- When wet, the colour will appear darker and transparent. Do not compensate for this by applying more paint. As the paint dries, the colour will lighten to the chosen colour and become more opaque.
- Allow a minimum of 2 hours between coats. Apply a second coat– painting the second coat faster, wet-in-wet and a lot looser. Missing spots is okay, as the first coat should have covered everything. Allow the paint to dry. While the paint will be touch-dry in a short period, it will continue to cure for about two weeks. Avoid rubbing the walls during this time to prevent marking.
If you’re painting with our ‘whites’, maintaining a wet edge is not required. These colours patch easily and are great for spot touchups.
- All brushes, tools, and containers wash out quickly with minimal water and without harm to groundwater. Use Bauwerk Colour Brush Cleaner to protect and prolong the life of your brushes.
- There is no need for a sealer or additional top coat over the limewash. To maintain your limewashed wall, we recommend simply applying another coat of limewash.
- Simply wipe the walls down with a damp cloth to clean—do not scrub the walls or use cleaning products or harsh chemicals.
- More stubborn stains and damage to the wall can be patched. Refer to our Youtube video for instructions on patching your limewashed wall.
- Following these steps ensures a natural, dust-free surface with a fantastic texture, making it easy to repaint and maintain.
Paint splashes can cause irritation to the skin and eyes, wear personal protection.
Wood Panelling / Timber / Plywood or MDF + Limewash FAQs
Can I Limewash my doors, skirting and window sills?
Limewash is generally not recommended for architectural elements such as architraves and doors. Bauwerk Limewash paints are always completely matte in appearance, which means that they cannot be cleaned like a glossy paint surface. Skirting, for instance, may show scuff marks. Prolonged use and handling may acquire a worn appearance.
Does a limewashed wood finish require a top coat?
Not if you want to have a seamlessly matte appearance and the chance to easily apply a refresher coat in the future. If you want to apply an invisible sealer please test the product as many will alter the colour appearance.
What weather conditions do you need to limewash wood?
High quality, natural Limewash needs adequate curing time. This will be longer in colder weather and in humid conditions. The ideal temperature for applying Bauwerk Limewash is 8°–30°C (46°F–86°F). Do not paint if the surface and/or air temperature falls below 5°C(41°F) during application or curing.
Can I limewash indoor wood panelling?
If you’re working with unpainted wood, you can prepare the surface in different ways depending on the look you want—either to highlight the natural grain or to achieve a fully covered finish.
For visible wood grain: apply limewash paint directly to your wood surface.
To cover the wood grain:
- On unpainted timber without repairs or damage: Apply 1 coat of Bauwerk Prep Coat before limewashing.
- On timber that has been repaired or previously painted, sealed and not in a raw state: Lightly sand, apply 2 coats of a high quality water-based primer, followed by 1 coat of Bauwerk Prep Coat. This creates an adhesive surface for the limewash and reduces the variation in the surface.
What about limewashing ceilings or furniture?
Works well on pinewood ceilings, plywood, and decorative furniture — either opaque or as a light wash.Anything else to watch out for?
Avoid wood fillers where possible — they can show as light/dark spots. Use timber plugs for repairs instead.
Can I limewash outdoor wood panelling or clapboard siding?
No, we don’t recommend limewashing exterior wood.
Why not?
While limewash paint is ideal for exteriors made from naturally absorbent materials like render or stone, exposed wood requires limewash paints that contain extra additives and chemicals to remain durable outdoors. Since Bauwerk paints are made without these additives, they aren’t suitable for exterior wood.